In this Month's
Wonderful World of Wine:
Feature Story:
Rose' Wine: An Under-Rated Delight
By Gary Parker
2011 Dragonette Cellars Rose'
2008 Schug Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 "R" Petit Verdot, Rundquist
2008 Mueller Family Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Calcareous Syrah
Recipe for March:
Chicken Liver Salad with Rose' Wine
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Rosé Wine: An Under-Rated Delight
We Americans really don’t get it when it comes to Rosé wine. And I can’t blame us. We have been through the ringer with sweet, weird, fruity-sweet, funky, cheap wines that were pink or Rosé in color. We have learned to steer clear of even the concept of one being serious or perhaps even palatable.
The White Zinfandel movement decades ago didn’t help much either. Many wineries got on that band-wagon, finding a way to turn less than great grape juice into cash, as did many of the mass producers of pink wine, who found a niche of those looking for the sweet and cheap.
But today there are some excellent, thoughtful, and even exciting Rosé wines being produced in our country and around the world. The Europeans and other parts of the wine producing planet are most excepting of Rosé wines, as they have not been exposed to the drudgery we have been historically subjected to.
I am happy to say Americans are now finding the values of this versatile, enjoyable, useful, and in many cases, enlightening beverage. I have found a good number of Rosé wines to be quite excellent, and I want you to be able to share in that experience as well. Our Really good Rosé wines are all around us. True, not all Rosé wines are created equal, but the good ones are out there and are a fun find.
Check this out:
Are you aware that some Rosé wines are selling for $45 a bottle? And the wineries can’t produce enough to meet demand?
That many Rosé wines have achieved 90+ point ratings from respected critics?
That Rosé Champagnes are typically more expensive and revered than their counterparts? For instance, Dom Perignon Rosé sells for at least 50% higher than their top of the line Champagne.
And to my point, most conclusively, one of my very good friends, epicurean, wine connoisseur and travel companion, Dr. Albert Cutri, D.D.S., will pull his teeth out if you were to scorn Rosé wines, or rate his Sunday afternoon garden parties of fine food and Rosé wine anything close to a pedestrian mode. And he might do so without Novocain . . . Please don’t let that happen!
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April, 2012
The WineSellar Club
2011 Dragonette Cellars Rose
Growing Region: Santa Ynez Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 70% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah
Fermentation: 5 Months on Lees, Neutral Barrels & Stainless Steel Barrels, Natural Yeasts
Suggested Retail: $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price $17.09
Broad Strokes:
Dragonette Philosophy:
“A properly made Rosé is the ideal wine for warm summer days, as an aperitif, or as a match for appetizers and spicy food. We also love to sip it while we cook, especially outside on the grill. Thus we take our Rosé seriously and meticulously apply all of the techniques we use on our white and red wines, most importantly, grape and site selection, lower yields, careful handling, and fermentation to complete dryness. Dry Rosé is a crisp, refreshing, expressive wine, with fruit and acidity in perfect balance to stimulate the palate.”
Appearance:
Burgundy-Pinot Noir-Rhone bottle. I really like the logo. It is an old alchemist symbol for the “elixir of life”, which takes on the appearance of an old cowhand branding iron. Perfect for their location and image, I think. Well done! The wine has just been bottled March 8, 2012, like in last month, so it will most likely develop more of that distinctive copper/salmon color over the next few months. The wine is crystal clear and very clean looking, even though it wasn’t fined or filtered.
Nose:
Nice fruit forward aromatics are delicate yet persuasive. Note strawberry, watermelon, a hint of cherry and kirsch. It is quite unique and engaging, showing a touch of herbs, ginger, ginger flowers and spicy nutmeg.
Texture:
It is medium to medium-light in body. The entry is very well balanced between fruit and acid, well beyond the quality you would expect for such a modest price tag. The acid is firm, the fruit initially restrained and then opening up with airing. The wine has a good backbone to it, with a very keen weightiness on the finish that generates a thoughtful mouth full. Conversely, it then (most enjoyably) leaves you with a delightfully refreshing sensation. Very cool, that.
Flavor:
What you smell is what you taste! Let’s see; strawberry, watermelon, a hint of cherry and kirsch a touch of herbs, ginger, ginger flowers with spicy nutmeg. I also got a bit of the Rhone varietal tastes of gravel and stone, earthiness and white pepper.
Serving Options:
This is the perfect sipper for an aperitif, served alone or with lighter appetizers. I found this wine to be both enhanced by food as well as enhancing food. I am all over this for the upcoming season of grilling or just getting a little cocktail wine in while preparing dinner.
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April 2012
The WineSellar Club
2008 Schug Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Sonoma Valley, California
Varietal Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
Fermentation: Barrel Fermentation
Suggested Retail: $28.00
WineSellar Club Case Price $19.79
Broad Strokes:
It is not often we can find California Cabernet Sauvignon of this quality for under $20, but here it is! Walter Schug is one of California’s longest tenured California winemakers. Walter was winemaker for Joseph Phelps Vineyards starting back in the 1970’s, where he made California’s first Bordeaux proprietary blend, Insignia, which is still to this day is a benchmark for the very best and most exciting wines made in California today. Schug also produced Joseph Phelps vineyard designates Backus Vineyards and Eislese Vineyards, which still command high scores, high demand, and high price tags. Walter left Joseph Phelps and started Shug Carneros Estate Winery in 1980.
Appearance:
Nice cut label outlining the family crest. “Schug” gets lost a little bit in that the label could use a bit more contrast in color. Still, it is a very nice looking package. The wine is vibrant red on the rim, only slightly darker in the center. It appears very clean and well made. Clear curtains drip slowly down the inside of the bowl.
Nose:
The nose is gently perfumed, with a very nice freshness to it, provoking a lively feeling. I found some fine plum fragrances, with red and black fruits, white and black pepper, coffee, mocha and clove. Lots of fun as it opens up, I’m getting underbrush, herbs wood spice, mint and eucalyptus. More spice shows up, then some chocolate and vanilla, which I always love.
Texture:
The wine is a bit angular right out of the bottle, but the youthful, assertive acids start to dissolve shortly after opening your bottle. Medium in body, and a bit lean until 30 minutes or so of airing. The acid is lively and quite present, leaving you with a exceptionally balanced, well rounded, lingering finish.
Flavor:
Look for red and black fruits, but mostly red, with raspberry, plum and cherry dominating. The vanilla and chocolate from the oak also has a nice spice to it, with a delicate dose of smoke. The black and white pepper we experienced from the nose pop in there as well.
Serving Options:
I don’t see this wine as a long-term keeper, in part because it is so charming today, and I don’t think it is built for the long haul. This fun and well balanced wine is meant to be enjoyed with grilled meats, sausages, steak, and BBQ.
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April 2012
The Two Rouge Club
2009 “R” Petit Verdot, Rundquist
Growing Region: Stanislaus County, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Petit Verdot
Fermentation: 9 Months Small French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail; $28.00
WineSellar Club Case Price; $22.49
Broad Strokes:
We have never had a 100% Petit Verdot in any of our wine clubs. A Bordeaux varietal originally, Petit Verdot is most often used in the region's famous red blends to add dark violet color, stouter tannins and impart concentrated fruit flavor on the palate. However, it ripens later that Cabernet Sauvignon, so often it cannot achieve full ripeness in Bordeaux. So now we see warmer growing regions getting great results from Petit Verdot as longer growing seasons suit this varietal very well. In fact, this wine is a great example of the fine wines that can be made by Petit Verdot. This wine is definitely hedonistic!
Appearance:
A striking package in a tall slender format. (Tall slender format reminds me of days gone by). Black on dark copper foil is simplistic in approach, but as I said, striking. The wine has a fantastic deep purple coloring, black at the core, and dark magenta on the rim. The wine drips down clear inside the bowl, but it’s viscous and to the tune of 30-weight oil.
Nose:
The nose is quite exotic and sexy. Deep, dark chocolate, cherry, as well as scents of vanilla made my brain swim. Root beer/cola and maple fragrance was laced with caramel, toasty oak, roasted nuts and black pepper. It is wild, yet in control, and keeps your nose going back to the glass for more.
Texture:
Sticking with the sexy and exotic theme, the texture is seductive and creamy with very good structure. Medium full in weight, it does not attack the mouth with acid and alcohol, but delivers sensational fruit complexities with a Rolls Royce type of smooth. It made my mouth water. Interestingly, the acid that gives this wine the creamy mouth-feel that comes from acid more akin to a kiwi, or strawberry, versus the tannic, alcoholic struggle many wines battle with.
Flavor:
Let’s give it an “R” rating! I know, I know . . . Deep, dark berry fruits: boysenberry and blueberry mainly. These blackish fruits are concentrated and commanding, quite intense really. Chocolate and vanilla run through palate, reminding me of that adult ice cream sundae. Also noted roast beef, spices, caramel, black pepper and a good smoke.
Serving Options:
Give this to me anytime. Not meant to age for too long, it is designed to enjoy, today, tonight, tomorrow and yesterday. It’s fabulous folks!!! What a wine, what a price!
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2008 Mueller Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Growing Region: Diamond Mtn. District, Napa Valley, Ca.
Varietal Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fermentation: 100% French Oak, 40% New, 18 Months
Suggested Retail: $68.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $61.19
Broad Strokes:
Here is a real charmer. A small family winery in the highly esteemed Diamond Mountain District of Napa Valley: known for producing some of the most distinctive and finest Cabernet Sauvignons in California. When I say small, we’re talking only 200 cases of this wine was made in 2008. The family has a real nice feel to them, and to better relate, you should google the winery and read their story. Very sweet, and it’s the kind of people you just naturally pull for.
Appearance:
The label is dominated by the bold “MUELLER”. The artwork below the name represents a diamond for their Diamond Mountain District Appellation. It is subtle but effective logo, designed by Steven Sorman. The wine is opaque at the core, black, getting to very dark ruby red toward the edges. It is thick like 40-weight, and hangs on to the glass for a long time.
Nose:
When you drop your nose into the glass, you can tell immediately this is a wine of excellent quality and breeding. It has the classic aromatics of a fine California Cabernet Sauvignon: cedar, dark fruit and black cherry, vanilla and some crush of herbs. I also detected raspberry, mocha, roasted nuts, lead pencil, a good touch of mineral as well as sugar pine.
Texture:
The wine is a bit angular right out of the bottle, but the youthful, assertive acids start to dissolve shortly after opening your bottle. Full and rich, well built Cabernet structure will hold this wine in check for many years to come.
Flavor:
Quite lovely on the palate, with good solid black and red fruits, raspberry, dark cherry, black berry, wrapped in the nice sweet vanilla oak component. Mahogany wood too! And lead pencil/graphite is really cool. There is also a nice cola/root beer thing, with a hint of red licorice.
Serving Options:
At age three, it is still quite youthful, and I would say just beginning its anticipated life in the bottle of some 20 years plus. While it shows very well now, I would like to have this wine in year 2022, ten years from now. I think it will be just coming into it’s own. Enjoy!
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2008 Calcareous Syrah
Growing Region: Paso Robles, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Syrah
Fermentation: 26 Months Small French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail: $34.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $30.59
Broad Strokes:
As you may have read in last months “Wonderful World of Wine”, I was one of forty judges at the San Diego Wine Competition. There were approximately 1,700 wines entered, and the 2008 Calcareous Syrah took FIRST PLACE, and named “Winery of the Year”. I voted for this wine as my number one, and I was really thrilled the judges had the same experience with it that I did.
I called the winery and told them I needed the wine for my beloved GP Collection Club members, and fortunately, they still had some in stock. Imagine, getting a wine of this pedigree for a mere $34 a bottle.
Appearance:
Straightforward, nice looking package overall. “Calcareous” reads clearly, and the gold/copper foil border on the label and graphic of local horizon line is a nice touch as well. Big heavy bottle gives subtle promise of quality inside the package. The wine is black at the core, dark ruby edges, and has slow dripping curtains.
Nose:
I couldn’t wait to try this again, so I opened it up the day it was delivered. Not such a good idea, as it takes time for wine to settle after transport. But after significant airing, it became the fantasy I wanted: to come full circle and deliver to my Club members. OK, it unfolded into a well-focused deep cherry, earth and dark soil, with grilled or toasted bread (yeasty). Dark fruits of course, with prune/fig/date nuances, tree bark (yeah, that’s right!). The nose just keeps going and going. It is very French like, true to the varietal, and I think possesses a touch of magic.
Texture:
Masculine, creamy, it’s a big mouthful of yummieness. It has an incredible structure for a 2008. Tasting firm and ready, it evolves into a more rounded, generous, delicious palate impression. Near perfect for me.
Flavor:
A gorgeous melding of oak, fruit and acid, sets the tone. You’ll notice the powerful dark fruits and cherry, with crushed herbs, vanilla (and caramel), gravel and hot stones. A touch of smoky bacon, spice (nutmeg), crème brulee, pumpkin, and berry compote. All well defined, in this fabulous, complex, thoughtful beverage that mankind has enjoyed for centuries. We are blessed!
Serving Options:
I am going to take a case of this and put it in my wine locker. I will drink one a year until 2024. When I drink that last one, I will be sad it’s gone, and happy to have had the opportunity to enjoy it. Heck, I’ll be in my 70’s by then. OK, something to look forward to in getting older.
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Chicken Liver Salad With Rosé
(Frisée Salad with Sautéed Chicken Livers, Poached Egg, Shallot and Croutons)
Chef Bruno Davaillon, The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas
I have saved this recipe ever since I saw it in the Wine Spectator last year. I absolutely love the recipe, and with us having a Rose’ in the club this month, I am delighted to share it with you. First, some background on the Chef who created the recipe, and his thoughts.
One dish on the lunch menu is lifted from Davaillon's childhood on a farm. "In my family we all had to help with everything," he recalls. "And we ate everything too." He ate chicken livers from an early age, especially in this dish made by his grandmother. "This reminds me of when I was young. It's a peasant dish, with the livers, and the egg, and was an easy Sunday late lunch."
"This is great in warm weather, outdoors, so you want chilled wine. It's really a rosé dish."
Ingredients:
2 frisée lettuce heads, extra-yellow
2 slices bacon
2 tablespoons shallots, minced
1 tablespoon Pommery mustard
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, divided 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for croutons
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 baguette
4 eggs
2 tablespoons butter
12 ounces chicken livers
1 bunch chives, chopped
Salt and black pepper
Pinch fleur de sel
Method:
Preheat oven to 375° F.
Clean and wash the frisée; pat dry. Keep only the yellow part.
Cut bacon in 1/4-inch pieces, sauté until crisp, fat is rendered. Remove bacon from pan, drain on paper towel.
For the dressing, combine shallots, mustard, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic and salt and pepper to taste in a mixing bowl, and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Remove garlic, and add bacon.
Cut baguette into 1/2-inch cubes, drizzle with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Spread cubes on a baking sheet in a single layer, and roast in oven until golden brown.
Bring water to a boil in a shallow pot, and add a few drops of vinegar. Poach eggs for 3 minutes each. Reserve and keep warm on a towel.
Clean chicken livers and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Heat butter in a sauté pan until brown and fragrant. Add livers, and cook for 1 minute on each side.
Deglaze the pan with remaining tablespoon of vinegar, and pour over livers.
Toss frisée with dressing. Add chives.
Divide salad among 4 10-inch plates. Top each pile with a poached egg.
Place chicken livers around salad and egg.
Finish with croutons, black pepper and fleur de sel.
Serves 4.
Owen Dugan Issue: September 30, 2011
In this Month's
Wonderful World of Wine:
Feature Story:
Wine Judging: Taking the High Dive
By Gary Parker
2007 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly Fuisse, Cuvee 1551
2010 Bodegas Borebore, Martin Fierro Malbec
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Flax Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Recipe for March:
Spring Tomato Vinaigrette and Pan Roasted Chicken
Wine Judging: Taking the High Dive
Over the weekend of March10-11, I was given the honor (and task) of judging wines for the San Diego International Wine Competition. The Wine Competition is in its 29th year of existence, one of five of these annual competitions based in our city.
There were approximately 40 of us judges, (some of the participants having been there since inception). The make up of people include winery owners, winemakers, Sommeliers, owners and buyers for restaurants and wine shops, wine distributors, wine writers, and a few non-industry connoisseurs (self described lushes).
The competition had somewhere north of 1,700 wines submitted from across our nation, as well as imports from other wine producing lands.
The wine producers submit their wines in hopes of getting recognition in terms of being awarded a medal at some level. The final results of the awards we bestowed were: Silver (626), Gold (235), Platinum (54), Best in Class (15), Best of Show (7), and Wine of the Year (1).
I was really happy to see the Wine of the Year ended up being my stand out vote, the 2008 Calcareous Syrah from Paso Robles at a mere $34 a bottle. The wine stood out for its character, quality, it was true to the varietal, complex and very well balanced. I loved the wine and I loved the fact that I voted for it. I felt passionate about that wine being tops.
As you may know, I have been tasting and analyzing wines for over three decades. In the beginning of forming The WineSellar & Brasserie, I was testing at least 100-150 wines a week to further my wine knowledge and to offer the best possible wines and values to my customers. And, because, I just love the stuff!
Part of my education came from being on the tasting panel for the California Grapevine, a publication that samples dozens of wines each month and sends assessments of their findings to their subscribers. Whilst on the panel, I discovered they have tradition to mark a panelist who is having a less than spectacular session of wine evaluation, which they refer to as a “High Dive”.
Typically, each Grapevine Panel session will have around 12 members, each of whom independently evaluate 18-25 or more wines in one evening. As a panel member, you vote for a first, second, and third place wine for the flight of wine presented. It sounds fine on the surface, but if you happen to vote a wine first place, and no one else does, that’s OK. However, if no one votes it second place, you’ll hear some group rumblings with tones of anticipation.
That’s because if no one votes it for a third place, you just took a “High Dive”. You would be the only one to vote for the wine out of the group. This means you faced some good-natured (but questioning) commentary from the panel. You need to have some thick skin on this one.
After the good natured ribbing that night, your only chance at redemption was attending the annual “California Grapevine ‘High Dive’ Pool Party”, where the panelists bring in some of the years finest selections to BBQ with. If you “High Dived” that year, you are required to bring in the wine you solely voted first place for a second look before the group. This is a great tradition, in that it (rarely) gave emancipation to the one who rose above the panel for a wine that was worthy, and to others, in resignation (most often), a humbling confirmation to an off night on the tasting panel.
So as I am evaluating wines in The San Diego Wine Competition for the first time, I am wondering if I am going to take a “High Dive” in front of forty tasters, voting by hand in the same room. I was fortunate enough to avoid that at the California Grapevine panel, but this was a new group, under new circumstances, and I haven’t been testing 100 or more wines a week for years. Would I be the lone one to raise a hand because my palate was now a mere welcome mat to a fringy wine? No chance to blend in with the others, either, as I was sitting in the very front table, by myself, so when I voted, everyone knew what I did.
To further my insecurity, there is a different, younger generation of judges that have a fresh but different set of criteria for wine evaluation than do the other, more established panelists, of which I fancy myself. That is not to say there are opposing goals, only different ways to reach the best end result; the result being voting for the wines that are worthy of a San Diego Wine Competition Medal.
I made it through. In fact, nobody took a “High Dive”, at the San Diego Wine Competition, a relief to anyone who experienced the room empty of all but two or three hands raised on a vote. Every time there was a paltry, miniscule showing of first places votes, the fellow hand raisers would comment to each other: “Yeah, I got your back!”
But for me, it was interesting to see how my generation differed from the next, upcoming group, in terms of the methodology and experience of evaluating wines. I have hired and have in my employ people who have been involved in becoming a Sommelier with a degree in said field. This means this person has endeavored to commit their livelihood to becoming the most informed, articulate, knowledgeable reference they could be, should anyone hope to engage them in conversation about what they need to know about buying an alcoholic beverage, most likely a bottle of wine.
This is admirable to me. For years, I have been entrusted by my clients who need wine for certain circumstances without my uttering a word about it’s terroir, residual sugar, barrel fermentation, acidity levels, the winemaker, the vineyard, and sometimes even the high score it received in a recent publication. However, imparting educational information is also quite valuable to everybody.
Wine is a most fascinating hobby, one that will let you get involved to the extent you wish. There is no end to the infinite matters of facts involving the tens of thousands of wines produced each year. Just ask anyone who is studying to become a certified Sommelier.
But for me, I’ll just slog along . . . “Does It Taste Great, Gary?” “Yup!”
Gary Parker, Owner
The WineSellar & Brasserie
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March, 2012
The WineSellar Club
2007 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly Fuisse, Cuvee 1551
Growing Region: Pouilly-Fuisse, FranceVarietal Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price $26.99
Broad Strokes:
From the founding (1551 AD) Chateau of the famed Pouilly Fuisse region of Burgundy comes this beautiful elegant Chardonnay discovery: It’s a gorgeous example of why the finest French white wines are so renowned. Check out the price, it’s a total steal. The combined suggested retail package for the WineSellar Club this month is $50. That’s 30% off before your additional purchase discount. Anyway, this wine is just fabulous, and I am very proud to present it to you. My wife immediately demanded a case for our home use, to which I will happily oblige.
Appearance:
Classic and beautiful French Burgundy packaging, with the embossed family crest as well as the windows of the Chateau in the drawing. Easy to read, and a good looking cap as well. The wine is clean looking, with some white corn coloring with a greenish tinge. It is very viscous and clings to the glass very well.
Nose:
This Pouilly-Fuisse has a complex, perfumed nose, which is nice and buttery, followed by white flowers and orange-Meyer lemon citrus notes. It just keeps getting better, with roasted red pepper, spice, ginger, canned peach, pear, smoke, roasted nuts and vanilla. Totally awesome!
Texture:
The wine is medium-full in body. It has a very creamy, smooth entry after airing for about 10 minutes to reduce the good line of mineral and acid. In fact, the acid on this wine is just about perfect, and it belies its relatively older vintage, still tasting solid without a hint of fading.
Flavor:
If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine this wine has the feel and complexities of a red wine. People have been fooled by these things, you know. The peaches and oak flavors come through quite nicely, and are surrounded by the Mandarin orange and citrus elements. With the vanilla from the oak, it gives me that old 50-50 orange ice cream bar from my youth. Spice, ginger, anise, toasted oak, roasted chestnuts, sesame seed, stone fruits, flower blossoms and on and on . . .
Serving Options:
Buy a case or two. This wine was selling for $38 a bottle at a shop in Northern California. It will impress your friends and you. I know it did me one heck of a lot. The wine still has a few years to go on it, so don’t worry about the vintage date. Truly folks, one of the finest white wines.
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March, 2012
The WineSellar Club
The Two Rouge Club
2010 Bodegas Borebore, Martin Fierro Malbec
Growing Region: San Juan, Argentina
Varietal Blend: 100% Malbec
Fermentation: 8 Months in Barrel
Suggested Retail: $15.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $9.89
Broad Strokes:
Founded in 1936 by Italian immigrants, Bodegas Borebore has been producing outstanding wines through a few different labels of theirs. Borebore winery is family-run operation near the Andes Mountains at an elevation of approximately 2,500 feet. We have selected this wine for our club to balance the pocketbook from our companion selections for the WineSellar Club and the Two Rouge. This is a very fun everyday drinking wine that has distinctive Malbec characteristics.
Appearance:
Handsome and simple label gets the point across, it’s Malbec from Argentina. However, the word Malbec is in small gold font and is hard to read. So is the vintage date in the top corner. Looks good but does it work? The old form versus function debate goes on, I suppose. Very pretty and bright cherry skin hue at the core, getting to magenta/pink/clear at the rim.
Nose:
Cherry and wood notes dominate the aromatic package overall. There is a nice scent of freshly crushed herbs, with black pepper, cumin, and some smoke and ash. Overall, it is quite pleasant, trailing off with nice red fruits, basil, and touches of honey and maple syrup.
Texture:
The wine is medium in body. The smooth entry brings a mouth of expanding fruit and some good, weighty viscosity, making the middle pleasant and mouth filling. It finishes with a drying acid and astringency that begs for food.
Flavor:
Straight-forward cherry and earthen wood components are first to arrive, and do so in good fashion. Then the black pepper and cumin notes from the nose pop up on the flavor wheel, as does the smoke and fresh basil like herbs.
Serving Options:
I had this with one of the bigger selling lunch items we have, the Brasserie Lamb Burger. It was a good fight between them, but I can happily say both sides won. The astringent finish begs for food, especially red meats, cheese of all kinds, and hearty pasta dishes. This is not a wine to cellar, but it is an exceptional quaffer for the BBQ’s!
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The Two Rouge ClubThe Gary Parker Collection
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $55.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $40.49
Broad Strokes:
One of California's first woman winemakers, Merry Edwards began her career at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. She went on to become the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977 and remained there until 1984. She is a gifted winemaker, and I am a complete fan of all her wines, past and present.
As I am sitting here drinking this wine, I am tempted to call Merry Edwards herself and tell her how much I love all of the wines she has ever made, including this one. The Russian River Valley is now heralded as not only its own appellation, but as one of the finest regions for producing Pinot Noir in the modern world.
Appearance:
Merry Edwards label is folksy, and it takes a bit of effort to see the two hands holding the grapevines. Maybe time for an update? Maybe NOT! The big heavy bottle has a solid feel. The wine has a black tea hue with some red and black coloring. It has a “grainy” look to it, probably a result of avoiding filtration to keep the flavors true and forward.
Nose:
The nose is hypnotizing as I melt into it. Smoke and deep, deep cherry fruit abound, with pine nuts, some homemade jam/jelly fruit, butter, grilled bread/toast, cumin and saffron. Whew!
Texture:
It is very rich and full for a Pinot Noir. Plush on the entry, with a remarkable feel in the mouth. It is juicy, mouth watering, with a velvet and silk texture, but still seems large and looming. It is seamless, fabulous. Touch of acid shows its youth, and promises years of pleasure should you store it.
Flavor:
Deep, dark black cherry fruit is massive, yet it fits the perfect Pinot Noir profile. It keeps going and going: roasted hazelnut, scent of the forest floor, cream, black pepper, and perfect tannins.
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March, 2012
The Gary Parker Collection
2008 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Flax Vineyard,
Russian River Valley
Growing Region: Russian River Valley, California
Varietal Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation: Barrel Fermented
Suggested Retail: $75.00
WineSellar Club Case Price: $62.99
Broad Strokes:
One of California's first woman winemakers, Merry Edwards began her career at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. She went on to become the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977 and remained there until 1984. She is a gifted winemaker, and I am a complete fan of all her wines, past and present.
As I am sitting here drinking the wine, I am tempted to call Merry Edwards herself and tell her how much I love all of the wines she has ever made, including this one. The Russian River Valley is now heralded as not only its own appellation, but as one of the finest regions for producing Pinot Noir in the modern world.
Appearance:
Merry Edwards label is folksy, and it takes a bit of effort to see the two hands holding the grapevines. Maybe time for an update? Maybe NOT! The big heavy bottle has a solid feel. The wine has a bit darker coloring that the Russian River counterpart, with some red and black coloring. The “Flax” also as a “grainy” look to it, probably as a result of avoiding filtration to keep the flavors true and forward.
Nose:
The nose is reserved for quite some time. It needs 45 minutes of airing to show its best complexities. The longer it was open, the more phenomenal it became. Deep, lovely black and red fruits, with gorgeous hints of tar, vanilla, roasted hazelnuts and grilled bread/dough. It is almost like smells like a freshly baked berry pie just pulled from the oven.
Texture:
Perfect.
Smooth and elegant, it’s packing a good punch but with a sweet fist. Folks, this beats the texture of the greatest Red Burgundy produced. Great acid to fruit balance, excellent weight.
Flavor:
I’m just going to reel off tasting descriptors: lovely vanilla oak, deep dark cherry fruit, toasted hazelnuts, blueberry pie ala mode, mahogany, rare roast beef, cinnamon, oats/wheat/bread dough, coffee. All very exotic, in a perfectly seamless structure.
Serving Options:
This will get better as time goes on. Make sure it has been opened for 45 minutes or more to get all the nuances form this baby. Merry, you are a dream!!!
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Spring Tomato Vinaigrette and Pan Roasted Chicken
Here are two simple but delicious recipes our Chef is using to teach a class later this month.
Both will do well with the 2007 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly Fuisse, Cuvee 1551
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· Ingredients (Spring Tomato Vinaigrette)
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· 3 Tomatoes (sliced in half)
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· ½ Red Bell Pepper (seeded)
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· 1 Clove of Garlic
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· 1 Cup of Olive Oil
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· Juice of 1 Lemon
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· 3 Tablespoons of clopped Parsley
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· Salt and Black Pepper to Taste
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· Method:
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· In a blender add all ingredients and pulse.
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· Store in airtight container in refrigerator for up to one week.
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· --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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· Ingredients (Pan Roasted Chicken)
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· 2 Chicken breasts, skin on
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· 4 Cups of Baby Spinach
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· ¼ Cup of Shredded Asiago Cheese
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· 2 Cloves of Garlic chopped
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· Salt & Pepper
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· Oil for cooking
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· Method:
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· In a sauté pan, oil the pan, and turn heat on medium.
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· Season both sides of chicken with salt & pepper and place skin side down.
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· Cook for about 3 – 4 minutes.
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· Then put into oven at 350 degrees for about 12 minutes.
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· Take chicken out of pan and let rest.
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· In the same pan sauté garlic add the spinach and sauté quickly.
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· Place spinach on plate.
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· Slice chicken, place over top of spinach, and sprinkle with asiago cheese.
Wine: The Daily Necessity of Life
Ancient Rome played a pivotal role in the history of wine. The earliest influences of viticulture on the Italian peninsula can be traced to Ancient Greeks and Etruscans. The rise of the Roman Empire saw an increase in technology and awareness of winemaking, which spread to all parts of the empire.
The influence of the Romans has had a profound effect of the histories of today's major winemaking regions of France, Germany, Italy, Portugal and Spain. In the hands of the Romans, wine became "democratic" and available to all, from the lowly slave to the simple peasant to the aristocrat.
The Romans' belief that wine was a daily necessity of life promoted its widespread availability among all classes. This led to the desire to spread viticulture and wine production to every part of the Roman empire, to ensure steady supplies for Roman soldiers and colonists.
Economics also came into play, as Roman merchants saw opportunities for trade with native tribes such as those from Gaul and Germania, bringing Roman influences to these regions before the arrival of the Roman military. Many of the techniques and principles first developed in Roman times can be found in modern winemaking.
As Rome grew from a collection of settlements to a kingdom and then republic, the culture of Roman winemaking was influenced by the skills and techniques of the regions that were conquered and became part of the Roman Empire. The Greek settlements of southern Italy were completely under Roman control by 270 BC.
Golden age
For most of Rome's winemaking history, Greek wine was the most highly prized with domestic Roman wine fetching far lower prices. The 2nd century BC began the "golden age" of Roman winemaking and the development of Grand cru vineyards (a type of early First Growths in Rome). The vintage of 121BC was of legendary fame and became known as the Opimian vintage, named after the consul at the time—Lucius Opimius. The vintage was noted for its large harvest and the unusually high quality of wine that was produced—with some examples still being drunk over 100 years later.
Pliny the Elder wrote extensively about the "first growths" of Rome—most notably Falernian, Alban and Caecuban. Other first growth vineyards include Rhaeticum and Hadrianum located along the Po river in what are now the modern day regions of Lombardy and Venice respectively.
At this highpoint, it was estimated that Rome was consuming over 47 million US gallons (180,000,000 L) of wine each year, enough for every man, woman and child to have about a bottle of wine each day.
Pompeii
One of the most important wine centers of the Roman world was the city of Pompeii located south of Naples. The area was home to a vast expanse of vineyards, and served as an important trading city with Roman provinces abroad. It was the principal source of wine for the city of Rome.
The Pompeians themselves were notorious for the decadence of their wine thirst. The worship of Bacchus, the god of wine, was prevalent with depictions of the god being found on frescoes and archaeological fragments throughout the region.
Amphorae stamped with the emblems of Pompeian merchants have been found across the Roman empire including the modern day regions of Bordeaux, Narbonne, Toulouse and Spain. There is evidence to suggest that the popularity and notoriety of Pompeian wine may have given rise to early wine fraud with fraudulent stamps being used to mark amphorae of non-Pompeian wine.
The 79 AD eruption of Mount Vesuvius had a devastating effect on the Roman wine industry. Vineyards across the region were destroyed, as well as warehouses storing the recent 78 AD vintage, causing a dramatic shortage of wine. The damage to the trading port also hindered the flow of wines from outside provinces. The wine that was available rose sharply in price, making it unaffordable to all but the most affluent Romans. The wine famine caused a sense of panic among the Romans who rushed to plant vineyards in the areas near Rome, even uprooting grain fields to have more available areas to plant.
While these efforts helped to quickly correct the shortage of wine, the opposite effect of a wine surplus also brought negative consequences. The glut of wine caused a depression in pricing which hurt the commercial entrance of wine producers and traders.
The grain fields that were uprooted contributed to a food shortage for the growing Roman population. In 92 AD, Roman Emperor Domitian issued an edict that banned the plantings of any new vineyards in Rome and ordered the uprooting of half of the vineyards in Roman provinces. While there is evidence to suggest that Domitian's edict was largely ignored in the Roman provinces, wine historians have debated the effect of the edict on the infant wine industries of Spain and Gaul.
The expectation of the edict was that the reduced vineyards would supply only enough wine for domestic consumption with sparse amount for trade. While vineyards were already established in these growing wine regions, the lacking impetus of trading consideration may have had a depressing effect on the spread of viticulture and winemaking in these areas. Domitian's edict stayed in effect for 188 years till Emperor Probus repealed the measure in 280 AD.
February, 2012
The WineSellar Club
2010 Silvaner Halbtrocken, Weingut Gysler (1,000 ml)
Growing Region.............................. Rheinhessen, Germany
Varietal Blend................................. 100% Silvaner
Fermentation................................... Stainless Steel
Suggested Retail............................. $22.00
WineSellar Club Case Price......... $17.99
Broad Strokes:
Yes, that’s right, 1,000 ml. The typical bottle size is 750 ml, so you’re getting roughly two more glasses of wine from this bottle. Silvaner is planted in Germany, Austria, and in Alsace, France. Halbtrocken translates to “Half Dry”. In simple, general terms, this means the wine cannot exceed 1.8% in residual sugar. It is actually a bit more complicated than that, but we’re sticking with this for now.
Appearance:
The bottle looks big because it is! Holding another ten ounces or so of liquid will do that to you. It is nice looking overall, with a clearly and simply stated label with the family crest. And of course, my favorite screw cap adorns the package. The wine is straw golden yellow in color. It is brilliant, clean and sparkling. It also brings a touch of youthful effervescence, as you can see tiny bubbles.
Nose:
The nose is totally delightful, with fresh peach, floral essence (honeysuckle & jasmine), mineral, chalk and lime. The fruit nuances are those of very ripe grapes, with a bit of honey, sesame and a very small hint of caramel/brown sugar.
Texture:
This has a fabulous texture, with the most beautiful balance one could imagine. It feels very clean, youthful, viscous, and the sensation of the youthful spritz is small but interesting factor. It is racy, and you will enjoy a clean, lengthy finish.
Flavor:
Peachy, mango and pineapple fruit are forward, along with Mandarin Orange. I found some enjoyable mint and fresh dill notes that are refreshing and striking. One taster noted granny smith apple flavor and acids. The caramel from the nose comes through to the palate, with buttered popcorn, mineral and vanilla.
Serving Options:
This Silvaner is a great aperitif, served cool but not cold. It is designed for consuming over the next year or so, and would be a great party wine. It’s a crowd pleaser, for sure. For foods, crisp salads with citrus and cheese would be ideal, or add sautéed fish to it as well.
February, 2012
The WineSellar Club
2010 Chateau Paul Mas, Clos des Mures, Coteaux du Languedoc
Growing Region.............................. Languedoc, France
Varietal Blend................................. 95% Syrah & 5% Grenache
Fermentation................................... French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail............................. $20.00
WineSellar Club Case Price......... $17.99
Broad Strokes:
The Languedoc Region of France is its own appellation, the largest in France. Many fabulous wines are produced there. "Coteaux" means that a hill is covered by vines. Coteaux du Languedoc has a very long history. The Greeks probably planted (probably) the first vines in France, about 500 years B.C. Clos des Mûres vineyard is part of Château Paul Mas, surrounded by wild mulberry (mûres) plants.
Appearance:
Big ol’ heavy bottle with a deep punt. In the wine world of today, one would suspect such a bottle would bring powerful wine and aggressive fruit. Well, yeah, that’s what we get! The label is hard to decipher beyond Chateau Pal Mas. The vineyard designate, “Clos des Mures” is barely decipherable with its small size and script. Lost opportunity. The wine is gorgeous. Black at the core, dark garnet near the rim, which finally hits clear. Dripping with viscosity.
Nose:
The nose is powerful, gilded with black fruits, spice and earth scents. Folks, I opened this wine three days ago, and it is still coming at me with all kinds of love. But it’s a hard love. It is unyielding and restrained in the beginning, not showing a lot of generosity.
Texture:
Medium full to full in body. Robust tannins. Powerful and dense fruit. The tannic, stiff beginning forefronts the lurking, massive Tsunami of wine fruit that will jump you. Drying finish is begging for fatty foods and more time in the bottle.
Flavor:
The wine is kind of sexy, if you like it rough (we’re all 21 or older, right?). Sometimes that’s the key, what you’re up for. Very powerful tannins give glimpses of a curvaceous and desirable fruit bomb, luring you with promises of deep black fruits, vanilla, black pepper, wild herbs and grilled bread.
Serving Options:
A few different options for this hulk: It’s one of those wines you could have a glass of, put in the frig, and drink it over the next few days. Or you could assault it back with some blue cheese topped grilled steak with chopped shallots and pungent garlic bread. Or you could drop in the cellar for 3-5 years and see if solitary confinement doesn’t tame it a bit. It is a fun wine, to be sure.
February, 2012
The Two Rouge Club
2006 Oliverhill Winery, “Jimmy Section” Shiraz
Growing Region.............................. McLaren Vale, South Australia
Varietal Blend................................. 100% Shiraz (Syrah)
Fermentation................................... French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail............................. $35.00
WineSellar Club Case Price......... $26.99
Broad Strokes:
It is evident that Shiraz and other wines from Australia have fallen out of favor to consumers in the United States over the last few years. This is most likely due to the glut of inferior product that was shipped here in mass quantities after discovering our market. The Oliverhill Winery is definitely an exception to that notion. With critical ratings of 93, 92, and 91 points from the Wine Advocate, Stephen Tanzer and The Wine Spectator (respectively), it is a shoe in this wine is a winner. We are proud of it being in The WineSellar Club!
Appearance:
Nice, simple round label is easy to read and quite direct. However there is no vintage or varietal on the front side. Of course, I like the screw cap! The back label is informative, which gives you a better connection to the producer/importer. The wine is opaque/black at the core, shifting to a brilliant ruby/magenta to the rim. We were commenting on the legs looking so beautiful, that Oliverhill might want to consider insuring them (a la Betty Grable).
Nose:
A very pretty nose, spicy, bright, clean, yet pungent, and it even made my mouth water with anticipation. Fresh aromas of black fruits, blackberry, blueberry, and plum, integrate with stewed cherries, vanilla oak, and bittersweet chocolate. It stays persistent, coming back for more intrigue with smoke and wood and a dash of fresh herb. Really quite nice!
Texture:
Medium full to full in body. It’s big in the mouth with sizeable tannins, and powerful ripe fruit. There is really a significant presence in the mouth, one might call it a blaster. But, after one hour of air-time, it became silken and velvety, actually quite elegant. What a turn around.
Flavor:
You can go right to the nose for the flavor adjectives. Pretty, spicy, and mouthwatering, bold with black fruits, stewed cherries, smoke, vanilla and fresh shaved mahogany. Also notice the dash of fresh herbs and perhaps a little tar or asphalt in the mix.
Serving Options:
The critics are calling for this one to age 10 years or more, and I do agree. I would like to try it in 2015, and go from there as far as determining when it is at its peak for my palate. I still had some of this left over from dinner, and finished it off quite nicely with some fine chocolate. Korean BBQ would be killer with this wine as well.
February, 2012
The Gary Parker Collection
Two Rouge Club
2007 Vacqueyras, Domaine La Fourmone, Tresor du Poete
Growing Region.............................. Rhone Valley, France
Varietal Blend................................. Grenache & Syrah
Fermentation................................... French Oak Barrels
Suggested Retail............................. $38.00
WineSellar Club Case Price......... $29.69
Broad Strokes:
It’s been ten years since we have had a Vacqueyras (vock-ker-rah) in one of our wine clubs. 2007 was a FANTASTIC vintage for the Rhone Valley. I love these wines, as they generally are small production affairs, without global marketing or pricing bringing down (or up) the prices and availability. But beyond that, the flavor profile suits me, as generally the wines are a bit awkward when first opened, and then turn into wonderful experiences as they develop. This wine was awarded a 90-92 rating by Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate. Not too shabby!
Appearance:
A fantastic looking package! It speaks to Vacqueyras. Perhaps the grower, a descendant from several generations at Domaine La Fourmone, Marie Therese Combe, did the art work for the label herself. She is quite and accomplished artist. I really, really like the embossed bottle. It’s so strong and proud. The wine is very dark red with gray black at the core. There is still a hint of youthful red on the rim of the glass.
Nose:
Oh . . . YAY! Such very deep and dark brooding red and black fruits. Hints of black olive, cigar (tobacco), smoke, raw meats of game, hay, wild herbs and roasted walnuts. I mean it is stunning! This is why I love wine. I got a hint of flint, or lead pencil as well. Just keep putting my nose back in it as it evolves.
Texture:
Medium full in body. Very dense, but certainly not overblown. It is rock solid, kind of chunky if you will, with a hard line of edgy tannic acids enclosing the muscle beast. Slightly drying tannins invite red meats and ripe cheeses.
Flavor:
Just waiting for us is dark red and black fruits, a crush of fresh herbs, with a hint of black olive, smoke and earth. Nice floral touches as well. I’m also getting hot stones or gravel, mineral, and that back to the soil feeling.
Serving Options:
Here we are enjoying a 90-92 point wine from a great vintage for an easily identifiable all-time bargain. The wine will last ten years, but I want to drink one every month for the next five years. So that’s only 5 cases I need to get. How about you?
February, 2012
The Gary Parker Collection
2007 Keller Estate, Pinot Noir, ”El Coro”
Growing Region.............................. Sonoma Coast, California
Varietal Blend................................. 100% Pinot Noir
Fermentation................................... French Oak
Suggested Retail............................. $50.00
WineSellar Club Case Price......... $43.19
Broad Strokes:
Seeing how our French Pinot Noir was so well received last month, I thought it would be cool to try an American counterpart. Arturo Keller’s interest in wine began with him making wine originally for just his friends and family. His continued passion for wine led him to purchase 650 acres in the southeast corner of Sonoma County on the eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap overlooking the Petaluma River. Just 309 cases of this beauty were produced.
Appearance:
Excellent looking label, clearly stating the producer, varietal and the family crest. The good-looking bottle is not oversized for marketing purposes, yet the wine is of a very high standard. Perhaps it is a bit understated overall. The wine is very pretty, and reflects light very well. It is also quite clear, even though it is neither fined nor filtered. Brilliant cherry red hue is delicate to the eye, and becomes almost clear as it gets to the rim. Long, long legs!
Nose:
A couple inches above the glass, the aromatics enticed me to go deeper and concentrate, focus on the complexity: for this is not to be casually set aside. Before we go further, I implore you to take 40 minutes or so to let this wine bring its full complement of aromas to you. Cherry fruit, floral nuances, smoke, white pepper, tobacco and wood are delightful! It’s spicy and racy, with many layers of beguiling scent waiting to be discovered.
Texture:
Quite similar to the Gevrey-Chambertin last month, the Keller is smooth, elegant, rich with fruit, and has a wonderful creamy feel. It is a touch lighter in body overall, but the lasting elegance and the mouth coating, long finish does not take a back seat to the Frenchy.
Flavor:
Very subtle, yet increasingly it gains presence. Can you taste dark red rose petals? I think I can. Some nice raspberry and cherry fruit also, with the wood notes of smoke and vanilla are there also. Look for a dash of herbs, spices, white pepper and milk chocolate. Oh man, I love this!
Serving Options:
The Gevrey-Chambertin was 2009, and this Keller is the 2007 vintage. It is also a touch lighter in body than the Gevrey, so I do not think it needs as much time in the cellar. In fact, it is so wonderful now, I would tend to enjoy it now and in the next 2-4 years. Cheers!
Lamb Meatballs with Curried Green Lentil Soup
Here is a lovely fall/winter recipe which is a slight modification of a dish we served at The Brasserie for years. Interestingly enough, three of our monthly selections will be exceptional accompaniments to this dish. Serves 6-8.
2010 Chateau Paul Mas, Clos des Mures
2007 Vacqueyras, Domaine La Fourmone
2006 Oliverhill Winery, “Jimmy Section” Shiraz
Ingredients:
- 1 large Spanish onion, minced
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 branches celery, minced
- 5 small red potatoes, diced 1/4''
- 2 tbsp. olive oil
- 4 tbsp. madras curry powder
- 2 boxes green lentils "du puy", rinsed
- 1 gallon chicken stock
- For the "bouquet garni"
-3 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 3 basil stems, 10 black peppercorns, 3 allspice berries. - 1/2 head Savoy cabbage, shredded finely
- 1 pound lean ground lamb
- Minced fresh herbs for garnish
- ½ teaspoon Rosemary (for lamb meatballs)
- 1 egg
- Salt & Pepper to taste
Method:
- Salt & pepper the ground lamb liberally. Add rosemary and egg. Work in with your hands
- Roll into small balls, about the diameter of a quarter. Set aside in refrigerator.
- Place half of the lentils in a saucepan and cover with water and a pinch of salt, bring to a boil and simmer until they are very soft.
- Drain and puree the lentils until smooth, cover and set aside.
- Lightly sauté the minced vegetables in the olive oil until onions are translucent.
- Add curry powder to the vegetables and sauté a bit longer.
- Transfer vegetables to a large pot; add the remaining lentils, chicken stock and "bouquet garni".
- Bring to a boil and simmer until lentils are tender.
- Add lentil puree and shredded cabbage, cooking until cabbage starts to wilt.
- Add lamb balls, turning down heat to low. Slowly simmer until lamb is cooked through.
- Season with salt, and ground black pepper.
